Col du Lein, Sentier des Mines, Col du Tronc : one day in three acts

Along the three passes

The scent of larch resin. A cowbell ringing in the distance. The smell of fresh cheese drifting outside a buvette. Between Col du Lein and Col des Planches, at the gateway to Verbier and Val de Bagnes, a single day can bring all of this together. Three stops, each echoing the next : Le Lein, the Sentier des Mines and Le Tronc. A hike to shape at your own pace, through pastures, forgotten mine tunnels and generous tables.

Col Du Lein @ Arno Roux

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In the heart of the Lein larches

Just a few minutes after leaving the valley floor, you find yourself in another world. At Le Lein, pastures nestle between beautiful larch forests that offer shade and coolness all summer long. The alpage sits at the heart of this peaceful setting, where Hérens cows, hikers and lovers of local cuisine cross paths throughout the season.

Le Lein is easy to reach by car or on foot. Come from Sembrancher if you want to work your calves, or from Le Levron for a shorter route. It’s also a good stopover if you’re exploring the trails linking Col du Lein, the Tronc alpage and Col des Planches. But before you hit the road or the trail again, take the time to discover what makes this lively place so charming.

To the rhythm of the herd

If you arrive early, you’ll catch one of the highlights of the day. Around 7am, the Hérens cows leave the barns and head out to the pastures surrounding the alpage. Later, around 11am, they come back close by before setting off again to spend the rest of the day nearby. These are the best moments to watch them.

Florent Farquet runs the Lein buvette and the alpage, and now looks after more than 120 Hérens cows. For him, these moments have lost none of their magic. “It’s fabulous to see them move together, this dynamic between them and me. I love these moments.” The young farmer, who grew up in Le Levron, knows almost every animal.

He dreamed of taking over an alpage ever since he was a child. Today he lives that dream every day, in a place he is deeply attached to. “What I really loved was the contact with nature, the independence, the cows.” Watch the herd wander between the pastures and the magnificent larches, and you’ll quickly understand what won him over.

Local flavours to savour

While the cows graze, life on the alpage carries on. In the morning, Florent also spends part of his time making cheese. In the production room, several hundred litres of milk are slowly transformed under his watchful eye. These precise gestures carry real know-how, and they give rise to the specialities served on site.

Behind the counter, Sébastien is often the first face you’ll see when you arrive at Le Lein. He’s always ready to help visitors or share a few tips.

For you, though, it’s time to explore and indulge. Settle on the terrace and take in the setting. On the menu, alpine flavours naturally take centre stage, in a generous selection that showcases local produce from Val de Bagnes. Before you leave, don’t forget to check out the shop corner. Sérac is one of the most sought-after products. Tommes, alpine cheese, honey, eggs and other regional products let you make the experience last a little longer once you’re back home.

In the footsteps of the Mont Chemin miners

Old mine tunnels, mysterious cup-marked stones, larch forests and a little mine goblin : the Sentier des Mines has all the ingredients of a great family walk in Val de Bagnes. Starting from Col des Planches, this loop of around five kilometres invites you to discover a fascinating heritage while enjoying a pleasant mountain walk.

The Sentier des Mines doesn’t reveal itself straight away. From the Col des Planches car park, look out for the signs marking the start. Cross the square, briefly follow the road, then head towards the Col des Planches buvette. This is one of the route’s quirks : to reach the trail, you walk right through this pretty, flower-filled buvette. It’s worth the detour before or after the walk. The Schildknecht family has run the Col des Planches buvette for 47 seasons, and it’s a favourite with walkers. With its homemade specialities and alpage products, it’s a natural place to take a break.

Before long, the path plunges into the beautiful larch forests of Mont Chemin. All along the route, Kobold, the little mine goblin, guides visitors from sign to sign. Children love following this mischievous character as he reveals the mountain’s secrets. As you walk, you uncover a little-known story. For centuries, people came to these mountains in search of lead, silver, iron and, later, fluorite. Several tunnels still bear witness to this activity, which left a deep mark on the mountainside. At La Crettaz, a former lead and silver mine recalls that era. Further on, the signs tell how fluorite, long overlooked, became a sought-after resource in its turn. You’ll also learn the story of the Chez Larze iron mine, which saw a revival during the Second World War. Anecdotes and illustrations help you picture the daily lives of the men who worked here, often in tough conditions. The further you go, the more you realise how long these now-peaceful mountains were a place of labour and mining.

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Start of the Sentier Des Mines trail @ Romy Moret

Stones that keep their secret

The Sentier des Mines isn’t only about tunnels and ore. Near Col des Planches, several cup-marked stones catch the eye. These mysterious erratic boulders, thousands of years old, are carved with hollows whose purpose remains unknown. Were they used for rituals ? To prepare or store food ? There are many theories, but none has yet won everyone over. It’s precisely this mystery that makes discovering them so fascinating, and lets your imagination wander.

A walk for the whole family

The route also crosses beautiful wooded pastures, where larches have shaped Mont Chemin’s typical landscape for generations. Keep your eyes open along the way : nature has reclaimed some of the old mines. The abandoned tunnels now shelter several species of bats, while the sunny slopes are home to lizards, slow worms and other discreet residents. Good news : the Sentier des Mines has no particular difficulty. At around five kilometres long, it takes about two hours at a relaxed pace. The elevation gain is low and the path mostly flat, so the whole family can enjoy it.

Discover the Sentier des Mines

Tronc alpage

Just a few minutes from Col des Planches and Col du Lein, the Tronc alpage is one of those places you discover once and keep coming back to. You can reach it on foot or by car, and it appeals as much to lovers of local produce as to those who like to take their time. Here, there’s no need to choose between a walk, a glimpse of mountain farming and a tasty break. It all happens in the same place. Le Tronc is one of those spots where you stop for a coffee or to buy a piece of cheese… and often end up staying longer.

The alpage has found a new lease of life thanks to a major renovation completed in 2024. The buildings hadn’t seen a major transformation since the 1950s. They have been modernised to improve working conditions and secure the farm’s future, while keeping the spirit of the place. The colourful fresco on the barn walls, which greets visitors, has also regained its full brilliance. As for the buvette, it’s now more comfortable and better sheltered when the weather turns, so you can make the most of the place all season long.

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Dalpage Du Tronc Refreshment Bar @ Raphael Surmont

20 years on the alpage

For 20 years, Virginie and Sébastien Sauthier have brought the alpage to life with passion. From the moment you arrive, you feel the family atmosphere Le Tronc is known for. Behind the counter, you’ll often meet their daughter Angeline, who is happy to lend a hand with service. Everyone plays a part in life on the alpage, and this simplicity is a big part of its charm. A few steps lead down to the cellar where the cheese wheels mature, all of them made since the start of the season. Mélanie watches over them closely. The cheesemaker is in her ninth season at Le Tronc and her 23rd in the trade. Looking at the rows of cheese lined up on the wooden boards, she sums up her craft simply : “You have to keep questioning yourself, otherwise you don’t move forward.” Before you leave, take the time to browse the products for sale. Cheese, plain or pepper tommes, aged cheese, sérac, artisanal yoghurts, homemade sausages and dried meat let you make the experience last a little longer once you’re back home.

Flavours that change every Sunday

Over the years, the buvette has become a popular meeting place for regulars and passing visitors alike. Share a platter of cheese, dried meat, cured ham, bacon and rye bread, enjoy a cheese croûte, a fondue or a raclette (on reservation), or simply soak up the calm and the view. “Every Sunday, we offer a different menu”, explains Virginie Sauthier. As the summer goes by, the dishes change : potato gratin with veal sausage, country ham, grilled meats, chicory with ham, chicken curry or raclette. The homemade desserts change from week to week too, such as raspberry mousse, tiramisu or fruit tart. A great reason to come back and see the alpage from a new angle.

Discover the Col du Tronc alpine buvette

Create your own walk

Le Tronc’s location is one of its greatest assets. From the alpage, you can easily reach Col du Lein or Col des Planches through the magnificent larch forests that cloak this side of the mountain. It’s up to you to shape a day that suits you. Some come to Le Tronc for a meal before continuing their hike. Others arrive after a walk, or simply treat themselves to a tasty break.

About the author

Romy Moret

Independent local journalist